Skin Guide
Pores are one of the most common concerns we hear about at the clinic, and one of the most misunderstood. The first thing worth knowing is that pores do not open and close. No amount of steam, hot water, or splash of cold at the end will change their size. What they can do is look bigger or smaller depending on how much oil is in them, how firm the surrounding skin is, and how thick the hair growing from them is.
Every skin plan at Plumerian Aesthetics Bentleigh begins with a complimentary thirty-minute consultation with an AHPRA-registered nurse. What follows is educational context, not a personal treatment plan.
What a pore actually is
A pore is the opening of a pilosebaceous unit. Under the skin, each one is a small system made up of a hair follicle, an oil-producing sebaceous gland, and a tiny muscle called the arrector pili. That system produces sebum and pushes it out through the pore to keep the skin surface protected.
To be visible to the naked eye, a pore has to be at least about 0.02 millimetres across. Pore count naturally rises through youth and peaks around middle age. After that the total number falls, but the pores you keep tend to enlarge and elongate. The most visible ones usually sit on the nose, chin, and the cheeks near the nose.
Why pores enlarge: the big three
Higher sebum production
The more sebum a pore has to move, the wider it stretches. High oil output is linked to a history of acne and to the hormone IGF-1, which rises with insulin resistance and diets high in refined sugar and dairy. If pores look worse on the nose and central face, sebum is usually the main driver.
Reduced elasticity around the pore
Pores need firm surrounding skin to stay small. As collagen and elastin drop with age, and especially with unprotected UV exposure, the tissue around each pore loses its spring. The pore then relaxes outward and looks larger. This is why the same person can have almost invisible pores at twenty and prominent pores at forty.
Bigger or thicker hair follicles
Terminal hairs (thicker, pigmented) sit in wider follicles than vellus hairs (fine, fair). Anything that shifts vellus hair to terminal hair, including hormonal conditions like PCOS in women, can make the pores in that area look bigger.
Hormones and your cycle
If you have noticed your pores look larger for a week or two each month, you are not imagining it. During the ovulation phase of the menstrual cycle, hormonal shifts increase sebum and can make pores appear more visible. The pattern usually settles again in the second half of the cycle.
Change up your skincare
Two goals guide the ingredient list below: reduce excess sebum, and support the collagen and elastin that hold each pore in shape. You do not need every ingredient. A consultation helps decide which combination suits your skin.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A is the most well-studied ingredient for pore size. It reduces sebum output by roughly 12 to 65 per cent within about two weeks, depending on the form and strength, and supports collagen at the same time. Our range lets you start gently and step up as tolerance builds.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
A well-known study using 2 per cent niacinamide showed a significant reduction in sebum after two to four weeks of daily use. It is gentle, layers well with almost anything, and suits sensitive skin.
AHAs: glycolic and lactic
A blended AHA at around 4 per cent has been shown to reduce the appearance of pores within a week, and to lower sebum output over four weeks. AHAs also soften the look of dullness and uneven texture.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it can move into the pore itself and help to reduce oil gland activity. It is a good choice for skin that leans oily or is prone to congestion.
Green tea
A 3 per cent green tea emulsion reduced sebum output in small clinical studies. It is antioxidant and calming, and useful as a targeted addition to a routine rather than an all-over serum.
Cleanse without stripping
A soap-free cleanser can gently reduce excess sebum without disturbing the skin barrier. Over-cleansing has the opposite effect: it removes the protective barrier and the skin responds by making more oil.
If your skin runs sensitive or you are new to actives, a gentler option is Calming Cleanse.
Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs)
PHAs are the newer generation of chemical exfoliants. Research shows they can be as effective as AHAs for pore appearance, with less irritation, no increase in sun sensitivity, and a safety profile that suits reactive skin.
Prevention: sunscreen every single day
UV, especially UVA, is the single biggest external driver of collagen and elastin loss around each pore. A broad-spectrum sunscreen applied every day is the most useful thing you can do to keep the pores you already have looking their smallest.
In-clinic options at Plumerian
Collagen stimulation with skin needling
Skin needling creates thousands of controlled micro-channels in the skin. The healing response upregulates collagen and elastin around each pore, which supports firmer surrounding tissue over time. It is our most-requested treatment for pore appearance and overall texture.
Facial muscle treatments
For some patients, carefully placed facial muscle treatments across the central face can calm oil gland activity in the treated area and soften pore appearance. It is a prescription option and is not right for everyone. A nurse consultation is the best way to know whether it might suit your skin.
Learn about facial muscle treatments
When to speak to your GP
If your pore concerns come with acne, unusual hair growth changes, or an irregular cycle, hormones may be part of the picture. Conditions like PCOS or insulin resistance are worth exploring with your GP. It is not something we treat, but it is something we regularly suggest patients ask about.
Considered care, without the rush.
Every skin plan at Plumerian Aesthetics Bentleigh begins with a complimentary thirty-minute consultation with an AHPRA-registered nurse. No pressure to book anything on the day.